Virgin wool or cashmere? The question comes up as soon as you choose a coat. Both are natural fibers, but they are not interchangeable. Each has its qualities and its limits. This guide helps you choose based on how you will wear it.
Understanding virgin wool
What is virgin wool?
Virgin wool is new wool, shorn from sheep, that has never been used in another product. It is the opposite of recycled wool, recovered from old textiles. Its fibers, still long and intact, keep their spring and their hold.
Properties of virgin wool
- Warmth: wool traps air and holds body heat, even in damp weather.
- Breathability: it regulates moisture without overheating.
- Longevity: with proper care, a virgin wool coat lasts a long time.
- Resilience: wool returns to its shape, even after being folded.
- Hand feel: the finer the fiber, the softer it is. Fine wools, around 18 to 22 microns, are soft to the touch.
Caring for virgin wool
Wool is brushed more than it is washed. It does not tolerate hot water, which felts it, or the dryer. A lined coat should go to the dry cleaner.
Understanding cashmere
What is cashmere?
Cashmere is the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat. Each animal produces little of it, which explains its price. It is a rarer fiber than sheep's wool.
Properties of cashmere
- Softness: its main quality, clear from the first touch.
- Lightness: for the same warmth, cashmere weighs less than wool.
- Warmth: it keeps you warm without bulk.
- Fragility: its finer fibers pill faster than wool.
- Breathability: comparable to wool.
Caring for cashmere
Cashmere needs a gentler hand: cold water, mild shampoo, never a machine spin. It holds few odors and therefore rarely needs washing.
Side by side: virgin wool vs cashmere
| Property | Virgin wool | Cashmere |
|---|---|---|
| Softness to the touch | Good, depending on fineness | Very high |
| Lightness | Standard | Very light |
| Warmth | High | High, without bulk |
| Resistance to wear | Very good | Good |
| Resistance to pilling | Good | Average |
| Care | Simple | Delicate |
| Price | More accessible | Higher |
How to choose: virgin wool or cashmere?
Choose virgin wool if:
- it is your first quality coat;
- you wear it every day and want a sturdy piece;
- you prefer simple care.
Choose cashmere if:
- softness and lightness come first;
- the piece will be worn less often;
- you accept more attentive care.
The wool and cashmere blend
A blend, for example 90% wool and 10% cashmere, brings together the hold of wool and the softness of cashmere. It is a good compromise for a coat worn all winter. How to wear it: a long wool and cashmere coat buttoned over a suit, or open over a knit and pleated pants.
Fineness: microns and hand feel
The fineness of a fiber is measured in microns. The lower the number, the finer and softer the fiber. A standard wool sits around 20 to 24 microns, a fine wool around 18 to 19. Cashmere is finer still, generally between 14 and 19 microns.
At Lebrun Paris, our coats are in virgin wool or in wool and cashmere depending on the model. The exact composition is listed on each product page.
Practical care tips
For virgin wool
- Brush regularly with a soft brush.
- Air it out after each wear.
- Wash rarely, in cold water, with a wool detergent, or take it to the dry cleaner.
- Dry flat, never in the dryer.
- Store with cedar against moths.
For cashmere
- Brush with a cashmere brush.
- Wash in cold water, without wringing: press between two towels.
- Store knitwear folded, not hung.
Conclusion: both have their place
Virgin wool and cashmere are not opposites. They complement each other. A well-planned wardrobe includes both. A men's wool coat in virgin wool for everyday winter wear. A cashmere sweater or coat for the moments when softness matters.
Whatever you choose, read the exact composition on the label. It is what separates a piece you keep from a purchase quickly replaced.
Further reading
For the fabrics we use, see our Our fabrics page and the fabric glossary. See also how to care for your wool and cashmere pieces and our guide to choosing a men's coat.