A coat is worn almost every day of winter. It is the piece people see first. A good coat keeps out the cold, holds the silhouette and lasts for years. This guide covers what matters: fabric, cut, length, lining, finishing, making, budget and care.
The five essential criteria
Five things make a good men's coat: fabric, cut, length, lining and finishing. Each can be checked before you buy.
1. The fabric
This is the main criterion. A virgin wool coat is warmer and more durable than a polyester one. Cashmere adds softness and lightness. A wool and cashmere blend, 90/10 for example, balances structure and comfort. Avoid 100% synthetic fabrics, which breathe poorly and age badly. Our fabric glossary goes into detail.
2. The cut
A coat should hang straight, without pulling at the shoulders or tightening across the chest. A straight, lightly fitted cut is the most versatile. It suits most builds and works over a suit as well as over jeans.
3. The length
There are two main options. Mid-thigh: a short coat, more casual. Mid-calf: a long coat, more formal. The choice depends on your style and your height. Tall, slim men often look best in a long coat.
4. The lining
A full lining, rather than a half lining, is a mark of quality. It makes the coat easier to slip on and protects the cloth from perspiration. The coat lasts longer as a result. Good linings are usually acetate-viscose or cupro.
5. The finishing
Neat buttonholes, reinforced seams, piped pockets, a well-built collar. These details separate a coat that lasts from a throwaway one. A hand-finished buttonhole is visible at a glance.
Spotting a quality coat in 5 points
- Weight: a good wool coat feels substantial in the hand. Too light often means a diluted fabric or a thin weave.
- The composition label: aim for 90% wool or more, or a wool and cashmere blend. Avoid mostly synthetic compositions.
- How it hangs: a good coat keeps its shape on the hanger. It does not slump or crease at the shoulders.
- The shoulder: lightly defined, without heavy padding. It signals careful construction.
- The drape: a well-rolled lapel, a clean collar, a neatly stitched lining. These signs show on a good coat.
Which coat for which build
| Build | Recommended | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Tall and slim | Long coat (mid-calf), straight cut | Short, fitted coats |
| Broad frame | Straight cut, above the knee | Coats fitted at the waist |
| Shorter | Fitted cut, mid-thigh | Long coats that swamp the frame |
| V-shaped | Straight cut, classic length | Flared cuts |
Types of coats: which one for which occasion
- At the office: a black or grey coat, straight cut, above the knee. Understated, it goes over a suit.
- Around town: a long wool and cashmere coat in brown or camel. More relaxed, it is worn open over a knit.
- For travel: a mid-length coat, not too heavy, easy to put on and take off. A dark colour hides marks.
- For formal occasions: a long black coat with a clean cut and a well-finished lining.
How to wear it: a long coat goes buttoned over a suit, or open over a jumper and pleated trousers.
Fabrics compared
- Virgin wool: warm, hard-wearing, good drape. The reference fabric for men's coats.
- Cashmere: softer and lighter. Ideal blended with wool.
- Polyester: cheap, but less warm and less breathable, and it ages badly. Best avoided for a coat.
- Recycled wool: a worthwhile alternative, though often less dense and less durable than virgin wool.
What budget should you plan?
A coat's price depends first on its composition and its making. Be wary of a so-called wool coat sold very cheaply: it is often mostly synthetic. Always read the label.
At Lebrun Paris, coats come in pure wool, wool and cashmere, or heavy 900-gram wool. All are fully lined, designed in Paris and made in France. The price and exact composition of each coat are on its product page. To learn more, see the Our approach page.
How to care for a wool coat
Dry cleaning is recommended, once or twice a season. Between cleans, air the coat on a wide hanger after each wear. At the end of the season, store it in a breathable cotton cover, away from damp and light. Never hang a damp coat on a thin hanger: it would stretch under its own weight. Every step is in our guide on how to care for a wool coat.
FAQ: choosing a men's coat
What is the best fabric for a men's coat?
Virgin wool remains the reference. For more softness, choose a wool and cashmere blend, 90/10 for example. Avoid pure polyester.
Is a cashmere coat fragile?
Not if it is well cared for. Blended with wool, 90/10 for example, cashmere holds up well and keeps its look for years.
Which coat length should I choose?
Mid-thigh for a casual look, mid-calf for a more formal one. Height matters too: a long coat suits a tall, slim frame.
How long does a good wool coat last?
Well cared for, dry cleaned and stored in a cover, a virgin wool coat can be worn for many years.
Where are Lebrun Paris coats designed?
In Paris. They are made in France. The exact composition and lining of each coat are on its product page.