Understanding fabrics means understanding the quality of a garment. At Lebrun Paris, every cloth is selected for its natural properties, its hand feel and its durability. This glossary guides you through the noble fabrics we use in our collections.
Virgin wool
Virgin wool refers to wool obtained directly from shearing, never recycled or blended with reclaimed fibres. It offers natural elasticity, excellent temperature regulation and remarkable resistance to creasing. It is the reference fabric for our men's overcoats and our wool trousers. The virgin wool fibres we use come from Italian mills renowned for the fineness of their production.
Cashmere
Cashmere is a precious fibre taken from the undercoat of the cashmere goat. Finer, lighter and warmer than classic wool, it offers an incomparably soft hand. We use it in wool-cashmere blends in our coats to combine structure and comfort. Discover our detailed comparison virgin wool vs cashmere.
Merino wool
Merino wool comes from the merino sheep, known for the exceptional fineness of its fleece. Softer than classic wool, it naturally regulates body temperature and wicks away moisture. Highly valued for pieces worn next to the skin, it also stands out for its resistance to odours.
Egyptian cotton
Egyptian cotton, or extra-long-staple cotton, is considered the finest in the world. Its superior fibre length allows a tighter weave, producing a cloth that is softer, stronger and more elegant in its drape. We favour it for our cotton trousers and certain summer pieces.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a tightly woven cloth, usually in wool or cotton, characterised by its fine diagonal ribs. Invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879, it is naturally water-repellent and resistant to abrasion. It is a preferred choice for structured jackets and city trousers.
Flannel
Flannel is a lightly brushed wool or cotton cloth, creating a soft, warm surface. Associated with the classic English wardrobe, it is ideal for autumn-winter trousers and relaxed jackets. Its velvety hand and fluid drape make it a particularly pleasant fabric to wear.
Tweed
Tweed is a sturdy wool cloth, traditionally woven in plain or twill weave. Originating in Scotland and Ireland, it stands out for its irregular texture, its resistance to bad weather and its inimitable character. Worn as a jacket or a coat, it brings a touch of authenticity and refinement.
Wool broadcloth
Wool broadcloth is a thick wool cloth, fulled and brushed until it achieves a smooth, dense surface. It is the traditional fabric of quality coats: it offers maximum thermal protection while keeping an elegant drape. Our double-breasted coats are cut from carefully selected wool broadcloths.
Linen
Linen is a plant fibre taken from the flax plant, highly breathable, absorbent and cool to the touch. It creases, and that is its signature rather than a flaw: it develops a patina and softens over time. A linen shirt weighs around 150 to 200 g per square metre, a summer jacket or pair of trousers between 250 and 350 g. Care: wash at 30 degrees, iron slightly damp for a smooth finish, or embrace the creased look. A major asset: France is the world's leading producer of flax, grown in Normandy and Hauts-de-France, so French linen is a strong argument for French manufacturing and short supply chains.
Leather
Leather is a tanned animal material, both supple and structuring: a fine leather develops a patina, can be repaired and is passed on. Its thickness is measured in millimetres, from 1.2 to 1.6 mm for a belt or a small bag, and full grain, the top layer of the hide, is its most durable quality. Care: nourish with a suitable balm two to three times a year, protect from prolonged rain and let it air dry, away from any heat source. Favour European tanning and full-grain leather: the tanning method, vegetable or mineral, and the origin tell you about the quality.
How to recognise a noble fabric?
A few clues: the hand feel (suppleness, softness, no synthetic stiffness), the composition label (percentage of natural fibres), the provenance (renowned European mills), and how it behaves in use (virgin wool recovers naturally from creases, cashmere improves with time). To go further, read our advice on caring for your wool and cashmere pieces, and discover in detail our exceptional fabrics.
At Lebrun Paris, the choice of fabrics is the starting point of every creation. It is this rigour that defines our approach to quiet luxury: menswear whose quality can be felt in the hand, seen in the drape, and confirmed over time. All our pieces are made in France.