Understanding materials means understanding the quality of a garment. At Lebrun Paris, every cloth is selected for its natural properties, its feel and its durability. This glossary guides you through the noble materials we use in our collections.
Virgin wool
Virgin wool refers to wool obtained directly by shearing, never recycled nor blended with recovered fibres. It offers natural elasticity, excellent thermal regulation and remarkable resistance to creasing. It is the reference material for our men's coats and our wool trousers. The virgin wool fibres we use come from Italian mills renowned for the finesse of their production.
Cashmere
Cashmere is a precious fibre from the down of the cashmere goat. Finer, lighter and warmer than ordinary wool, it provides an incomparably soft feel. We use it in a wool-cashmere blend in our coats to combine structure and comfort. Discover our detailed comparison virgin wool vs cashmere.
Merino wool
Merino wool comes from the merino sheep, prized for the exceptional fineness of its fleece. Softer than ordinary wool, it naturally regulates body temperature and wicks away moisture. Very popular for pieces worn next to the skin, it also stands out for its resistance to odours.
Egyptian cotton
Egyptian cotton, or extra-long staple cotton, is considered the finest in the world. Its superior fibre length allows a tighter weave, producing a softer, more hard-wearing cloth with a more elegant drape. We favour it for our cotton trousers and certain summer pieces.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a tightly woven cloth, usually in wool or cotton, characterised by its fine diagonal ribs. Invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879, it is naturally water-repellent and abrasion-resistant. It is a material of choice for structured jackets and city trousers.
Flannel
Flannel is a wool or cotton cloth that is lightly brushed, creating a soft, warm surface. Associated with the classic English wardrobe, it is ideal for autumn-winter trousers and casual jackets. Its velvety feel and fluid drape make it a particularly pleasant material to wear.
Tweed
Tweed is a robust wool cloth, traditionally woven in plain or twill weave. Originating from Scotland and Ireland, it stands out for its irregular texture, its resistance to the elements and its inimitable character. Worn as a jacket or coat, it brings a touch of authenticity and refinement.
Wool melton
Wool melton refers to a thick wool cloth, milled and brushed until a smooth, dense surface is obtained. It is the traditional material for quality coats: it offers maximum thermal protection while keeping an elegant drape. Our double-breasted coats are cut from carefully selected wool meltons.
How to recognise a noble material?
A few clues: the feel (suppleness, softness, the absence of synthetic stiffness), the composition label (the percentage of natural fibres), the origin (renowned European mills), and the behaviour in use (virgin wool de-creases naturally, cashmere improves with time). To go further, see our tips for caring for your wool and cashmere pieces, and discover in detail our exceptional cloths.
At Lebrun Paris, the choice of materials is the starting point of every creation. It is this exigence that defines our approach to quiet luxury: menswear whose quality is felt to the touch, seen in the drape, and confirmed over time. All our pieces are made in France.