Virgin wool or cashmere? The question comes up time and again when investing in a quality coat. Both are noble fibres, but they are not interchangeable. Each has its own properties, advantages and trade-offs. This guide will help you make the choice that suits your needs.
Understanding virgin wool
What is virgin wool?
Virgin wool comes from the annual shearing of sheep. It is the first raw fibre, not yet spun or processed. Unlike "recycled" wool (reclaimed from old garments), virgin wool has an intact fibre length and optimal mechanical properties.
Properties of virgin wool
- Thermal insulation: Excellent. Wool creates air pockets that retain body heat. A virgin wool coat keeps you warm even when wet.
- Breathability: Good. Wool "breathes", regulating body moisture without leaving you clammy.
- Durability: Very good when cared for properly. A virgin wool coat can last 20 to 30 years.
- Elasticity: Wool naturally returns to its original shape, even after prolonged compression.
- Hand feel: Depending on the fineness of the fibre, it can be soft or slightly coarse. Fine wools (18-22 microns) are very soft.
Caring for virgin wool
Wool requires specific care. Cold water, with a gentle detergent designed for wool. Never hot water (risk of felting). Dry flat. With regular brushing, genuine virgin wool can go several years before needing a full wash.
Understanding cashmere
What is cashmere?
Cashmere comes from goats living in the mountains of the Kashmir region (India, Pakistan, Nepal). Each goat produces very little cashmere down (10-40g per year), which explains the high prices. It is a fibre infinitely rarer and more precious than wool.
Properties of cashmere
- Softness: Cashmere is famous for its incomparable softness to the touch. It is a tactile luxury.
- Lightness: For thermal insulation equivalent to wool, cashmere is 8 times lighter.
- Insulation: Exceptional. Cashmere keeps you very warm without weighing you down.
- Durability: More delicate than wool. The fibres are finer and more prone to pilling.
- Breathability: Excellent, comparable to wool.
Caring for cashmere
Cashmere demands more delicacy. Wash in very cold water (5-10°C), with a specialist cashmere shampoo. Never spin-dry in a machine. Cashmere should be washed less often than wool, as its fibre structure does not absorb odours as readily.
Head to head: virgin wool vs cashmere
| Property | Virgin wool | Cashmere |
|---|---|---|
| Softness to the touch | Good (depending on fineness) | Exceptional |
| Lightness | Normal | Very light |
| Thermal insulation | Excellent | Exceptional |
| Raw durability | 20-30 years | 15-20 years |
| Pilling resistance | Good | Moderate |
| Ease of care | Easy | Delicate |
| Value for money | Excellent | Very high cost |
How to choose: virgin wool or cashmere?
Choose virgin wool if:
- This is your first investment in a premium coat.
- You wear it often and want maximum durability.
- You prefer simple, fuss-free care.
- You are looking for excellent value for money.
Choose cashmere if:
- You are looking for the pinnacle of luxury and softness to the touch.
- You prefer maximum lightness.
- It is a special piece, worn occasionally rather than daily.
- You are prepared to invest more for a superior tactile experience.
Why fineness matters: microns and quality
An often-overlooked aspect: the "fineness" of the yarn. It is measured in microns (μm). The lower the number, the finer and softer the fibre.
Virgin wool:
- Basic: 25-30 microns (coarse wool)
- Standard: 20-24 microns (good softness, the norm)
- Premium: 18-19 microns (very soft)
Cashmere:
- Standard: 15-17 microns
- Premium: 13-15 microns
- Luxury: under 13 microns (exceptional)
At Lebrun Paris, the virgin wool we use for coats sits between 19-21 microns (very soft without being fragile).
Practical care tips
For virgin wool
- Brush regularly with a soft brush.
- Wash in cold water (15°C) every 2-3 months if worn regularly.
- Use a specialist "wool" detergent (neutral pH).
- Always dry flat, never tumble dry.
- Store with natural cedar to keep moths away.
For cashmere
- Brush once a week with a specialist cashmere brush.
- Wash in very cold water (5-10°C) every 3-4 months.
- Never wring. Press gently between two towels.
- Store folded, not on a hanger (risk of stretching).
Conclusion: both have their place
Virgin wool and cashmere are not in competition. They are complementary. A well-considered wardrobe includes both. A men's wool coat in virgin wool for everyday winter wear, robust and practical. A cashmere sweater or coat for the occasions when you want to indulge in unmatched softness.
Whichever you choose, make sure of the quality of the fibre, its origin and its certification labels. It is this attention that separates a lasting investment from a disposable purchase.
Going further
To learn more about the fabrics we use, visit our page Our Exceptional Fabrics. Discover also how to care for your wool and cashmere pieces, and explore our guide to choosing your men's coat.